Ayup! Over the last few months, I’ve tweaked and refined my iPhone photography formats and tools. For black and white, I’ve landed on a process that I’m really rather happy with.
If you’d like a visual reference, all of the images on my homepage or Glass portfolio use the following techniques. At least, at the time of writing and publishing this post.
Black and white is about spotting form, shapes, the way the light interacts with the scene. Colour is fantastic but sometimes it can really get in the way of that. Stripping everything back to basics really makes you pay attention to the simple things.
(Not) The Only Way to Create Black and White iPhone Images
In any post like this, I like to include a quick reminder: This is how I create black-and-white images. It’s not the only way, nor is it the best way for every situation. In fact, it’s much easier to shoot JPG or HEIF and apply a Stark or Muted B&W photographic style.
The only downside is the additional processing and less control during editing. When shooting with an iPhone, I want a) the best possible quality and b) the least amount of computational processing.
Here’s how it all comes together…
1. Native Camera App
First up, I only ever use the built-in camera app. I’ve tried many others, but always gravitate back to the native/stock option. It has more than enough settings for my own personal needs. Additionally, I don’t think you can beat the image quality or user interface.
It’s designed by Apple to be used with Apple. Once we sidestep their horrendous HDR and processing BS, the benefits really start to shine through.
I always set the exposure to -0.7. This is producing some incredible results. Highly recommend, if you aren’t already doing the same.
Some of the considerations I like to make when I critique my work include the use of negative space, lines, contrast, and the presence of emotion. The final characteristic of that list is often what I look for in my monochromatic work.
2. 48 MP ProRAW
ProRAW doesn’t fully eliminate Apple’s processing, but it drastically reduces it. You could certainly argue that Bayer RAW is a better option, but this isn’t available in the native camera app.
In the settings, I have the following pipeline set up:
- Camera Capture – Most Compatible
- Photo Mode – 24 MP
- ProRAW Format – JPEG-XL Lossless
This gives you access to the 48 MP RAW option inside the camera app. I always make sure that’s enabled before taking any serious shots. Lots of folks report that JPEG-XL Lossy isn’t noticeably worse than Lossless. If you want to save some space, this is a solid option.
3. Shoot in Colour, Edit in Black & White
The thing with ProRAW is you can’t apply any of the iPhone’s photographic styles. I actually much prefer shooting in black and white, so you can get an idea of how it will look before capturing an image.
That said, the more you shoot in colour, the more you start to see in black and white. Identifying potential scenes and compositions will eventually become second nature. Depending on your desired end result, you’ll likely scan your surroundings for contrast.
One major benefit of shooting in colour is the additional flexibility when editing. Once you’ve converted your image to black and white, you still have all of the colours to play with. For example, you can make what was previously yellow much brighter or darker. This gives you way more precision over your image’s contrast.
The key to learning how to see in black and white is understanding that there are two different ways to approach monochrome photography.
The first is to set out from the start to create a black and white image and do everything you can at the point you take it to make it as strong as possible.
The second is to recognize after a photo has been taken that it will make a good black and white photo and convert it in Lightroom Classic (or whichever application or plugin you prefer to use).
4. 1x/24mm Whenever Possible
This one isn’t exclusive to black and white, but it’s worth noting nonetheless. The quality you can squeeze out of the main lens is far superior to any of the others.
If the composition allows, I’ll always default to 1x. When needed, I’ll happily swap to 0.5x or 2x, but you can definitely notice the difference when you start zooming in. Not that anybody else is doing that while viewing your photos, but still.
5. AirDrop Files to Laptop
How you transfer the files from your phone to your laptop or desktop is super important. For example, you won’t want to touch Apple Photos. If you export your ProRAW files this way, they’ll no longer be ProRAW.
Instead (if you’re also using an Apple computer), AirDrop them over to your desktop or laptop. This way, you get the full-sized, full-quality ProRAW files ready to import into Lightroom. Happy days! Now for the exciting part…
6. Laptop & Lightroom
Lastly, the magic of this entire process is revealed back at my desk. I wouldn’t even consider editing on the iPhone. Nope! Its work here is done. If your primary goal is to achieve an image that looks like it was taken on a mirrorless camera, we’re going to need:
- A desktop or laptop (maybe an iPad, at a push)
- Lightroom (or your editing tool of choice)
- A calm, comfortable, focused environment
- Copious amounts of tea and biscuits (ideally dark chocolate digestives)
A bigger screen with a full keyboard and mouse gives you far more control. You’ll also be able to see so much more than trying to faff about on a tiny little screen.
Lightroom won’t be for everyone. I know that plenty of folks are seeking out alternatives. I did the same, but ended up right back where I started. For ProRAW files, it’s a perfect match. This is mainly due to the built-in ProRAW Monochrome profile, but more importantly, the Adobe B&W profiles. The latter converts and completely transforms your image in a single click.
All my black-and-white iPhone photos now start with one of Lightroom’s 12 B&W profiles. Honestly, this usually gets a photo 80% of the way there. I then make a few minor tweaks, including some or all of the following:
- Light (highlights, shadows, etc)
- Colour – B&W Mixer
- Effects – Reduce clarity, add vignette and grain
- Detail – Usually leave at 50
- Masking – If specific areas need attention
- Remove – Get rid of any pesky distractions
Lightroom ships with an extensive array of profiles. The number available varies based on the format of selected images, with more profiles available for Raw files.
Job Done!
That’s it: a not-so-simple but effective process for (hopefully) professional-looking black-and-white iPhone photos. The tools and formats took a little trial and error. To get the best out of these tiny little sensors, though, I think I’ve landed at the sweet spot.
When it comes to high-quality iPhone imagery, this is really just the beginning. Sony, Xiaomi, and Oppo are already implementing 1-inch sensors. Apple will eventually catch up, and the tech will only keep evolving. Exciting times!
For the time being, my capturing and editing stack looks a little bit like this:
- Use the native camera app
- Choose 48 MP ProRAW
- Shoot in colour, edit in black and white
- Use the 1x lens whenever possible
- Transfer files via AirDrop
- Edit with Lightroom on a laptop/desktop